Discover Lisbon Like a Local: From Yellow Trams to Charming Cobblestone Alleys

gounchartedhorizon

Jun 16

6 min read

A view of Lisbon from the The Castelo de São Jorge

Last updated September 24

Discovering Lisbon: Views from Castelo de São Jorge

Lisbon, Portugal, just happens to be one of my favourite European cities; it is incredibly easy to navigate around. If you are arriving via Humberto Delgado Airport and using the Metro to reach the city centre, be sure to buy a Navegante card at the station. It is a reusable contactless card that costs around 50 cents and remains valid for a year for public transport across Lisbon and the wider metropolitan area.

You can use it for the:

Metro
Trams
Buses
Local trains
Ferries

Once purchased, top up as required at any Metro station. I cannot recommend it enough; it allows for seamless travel, switching from one mode of transport to the next without worrying about spare change. For more information, click: Navegante Card. There are other cards you can buy that bundle together transport with sites of interest. How cost-effective they are depends very much on you and what you want to see or do. While some bundles can be worth it, some mean you're locked into paying for something you aren't interested in. The choice is yours. Personally, I don't like pressure, preferring my own leisurely pace. But everyone is different, and it's not for me to decide the pace at which you want to travel around.

Standing proudly over Lisbon, St. George's Castle (Castelo de São Jorge) is a must-visit Lisbon landmark that offers an unmatched vantage point over the city's red rooftops and the Tagus River. Its commanding presence speaks directly to its immense historical relevance. While Romans and the Visigoths fortified the hilltop, the current fortress structure was built by the Moors in the 11th century as a defensive citadel.

Everything changed in 1147 during the Siege of Lisbon, when Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, captured the castle with the help of northern European crusaders. It was then transformed into a grand royal palace, hosting historical milestones in the country's history, e.g., King Manuel I welcoming explorer Vasco da Gama back from India. Today, walking its ancient ramparts connects you to a large part of Lisbon’s foundational story. If you want to beat the crowds, get there for opening time. It's well worth the effort.

Taking a day trip to the fairytale Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena) is a must-do when you're visiting Lisbon. Perched high in the Sintra Mountains, this romanticist castle looks like a fever dream of bright yellows, vivid reds, and intricate Portuguese azulejo tiles.

The easiest, most affordable, and most scenic way to get there is by taking the local commuter train. Here is exactly how to navigate the journey from central Lisbon up to the castle gates.

Step 1: Departing Central Lisbon (Rossio Station)

While Lisbon has a few major train stations, your starting point is Rossio Station (Estação de Caminhos de Ferro do Rossio), located right in the heart of the historic centre. The station itself is a masterpiece of Neo-Manueline architecture, featuring dramatic horseshoe-shaped archways at the entrance.

Buying Tickets: You can buy a ticket at the station counters or automated machines. It costs roughly €3 to €5 for a return trip, and you can use your Navegante card; it's completely free if you hold a Lisbon Card
The Journey: Trains run frequently (usually every 15 to 30 minutes). The ride takes about 40 minutes and terminates at Sintra Station, making it impossible to miss your stop. Be aware. Depending on your travel time, there may be standing room only.

Step 2: Conquering the Sintra Bottleneck

Arriving at Sintra Station is the easy part. The real challenge—and where many travellers get tripped up—is getting from the station up the incredibly steep, winding mountain road to Pena Palace itself. Warning: Do not attempt to walk from the train station to the palace unless you are prepared for a brutal, 60-to-90-minute uphill hike.

Instead, you have a few specific options right outside Sintra station:

The 434 Tourist Bus: This is the standard loop bus that connects the train station to the historic centre, the Moorish Castle, and Pena Palace. It costs around €13.50 for a 24-hour pass. Be prepared for long queues at the station during peak season.
Tuk-Tuks and Shuttles: Private drivers wait outside the station. They are slightly more expensive but can weave through traffic more quickly and offer a fun, open-air ride up the hill.

Step 3: Exploring Pena Palace

Once you arrive at the main park gates, you still have a 10-to-15-minute uphill walk through the lush forest of Parque da Pena to reach the actual palace structure (though a small paid hop-on shuttle is available for those with limited mobility).

[Sintra Train Station] ➔ [434 Bus / Tuk-Tuk Ride Uphill] ➔ [Main Park Gate] ➔ [15-Min Walk] ➔ [Pena Palace Interior]

Pro-Tips for a Smooth Visit

Book Well in Advance: Entry to the palace interior is strictly managed by timed entry slots.
The "Two Gates" Rule: Your ticket time dictates when you must enter the palace building itself, not the main park gate. Give yourself at least 45 minutes of buffer time between arriving at the bottom park gate and your actual palace entry slot.
Dress in Layers & Wear Sneakers: Because the palace sits high on a mountain peak, it can be remarkably windy and cooler than central Lisbon. Combined with steep, uneven stone pathways, comfortable walking shoes are non-negotiable.

Time out at the Gulbenkian Museum

The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum houses one of the world's most exquisite and extensive private art collections. Amassed over several decades by the wealthy Armenian oil magnate Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian, who spent his final years in Lisbon, the museum opened to the public in 1969. Gulbenkian’s collecting motto was "only the best," resulting in a compact but remarkably diverse assembly of masterpieces. The museum itself is a striking example of modernist, brutalist architecture, designed to blend with a sprawling landscape garden that offers a peaceful oasis in the heart of the city.

The permanent collection is thoughtfully curated into two independent circuits arranged in chronological and geographical order:

Circuit 1: Classical Antiquity and Oriental Art

This section highlights Gulbenkian's deep interest in the ancient world and the Near and Far East, presenting meticulously preserved antiquities and fine crafts.

Ancient Egyptian Art: The museum holds an array of rare artefacts from the Old Kingdom to the Roman Era. Most notable is the alabaster Solar Barque of Djedhor, alongside exquisitely sculpted statuettes and a bronze head of King Senwosret III, which was acquired with guidance from the legendary archaeologist Howard Carter.
Greco-Roman Treasure: This collection features rare Greek coins, exquisite gems, and Roman medallions. Particularly impressive are pieces from a massive treasure trove discovered in Abu Qir, Egypt, in 1902.
Eastern Islamic Art: Reflecting Gulbenkian's own cultural heritage, this wing displays beautiful 12th to 18th-century ceramics, painted tiles, intricate mosque lamps, and rare "animal fighting" carpets from Persia, Turkey, and Syria.
Far Eastern Masterpieces: A refined room dedicated to East Asian craftsmanship, showcasing delicate Ming Dynasty porcelain from China and intricately designed decorative lacquerware from Japan.

Circuit 2: European Art (11th to 20th Century)

The second half of the museum transitions into Western traditions, taking visitors from medieval religious art through the heights of European painting, and concluding with decorative arts.

Old Master Paintings: The galleries feature world-famous works from the Renaissance to the Baroque periods. Highlights include Rembrandt's Portrait of an Old Man and Pallas Athena, Peter Paul Rubens's Portrait of Helena Fourment, and Domenico Ghirlandaio's Portrait of a Young Woman.
18th-Century French Decorative Arts: Gulbenkian had a strong affinity for the French court style. This wing displays opulent tapestries from Gobelins and Aubusson, masterfully crafted furniture, and rare gold and silver items that once belonged to the palaces of Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette.
Impressionist and 19th-Century Art: The transition to modern realism features exceptional paintings such as Édouard Manet’s Boy Blowing Bubbles, Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s Portrait of Madame Claude Monet, and works by Claude Monet himself, Edgar Degas, and J.M.W. Turner.
The René Lalique Collection: The museum concludes with a room dedicated entirely to the visionary Art Nouveau jeweller and glassmaker René Lalique, who was a close personal friend of Gulbenkian. Considered unique in the world for its scale and quality, this exhibit features nearly 200 spectacular organic creations, including glowing glasswork and the famous, intricate dragonfly jewellery.